Taking Pride In Pork
Producers pick prize recipe

By Colleen Johnson
Staff Writer
The Daily News Journal
January 26, 2005

Some of the area's finest chefs gathered at Murfreesboro's Doubletree Hotel last week to participate in the 16th annual Taste of Elegance cook-off, held by the Tennessee Pork Producers Association.

Representatives from such renowned eateries as the Boundry, Park Cafe, Zola, Mafiaoza's and South Street competed for the best pork entree and a $1,000 prize.

"It's a new way to show how pork can be done besides a pulled-pork sandwich," explains Murfreesboro chef Paul Ent of B. McNeel's.

Ent's entree, a Pulled Pork Ravioli with Wilted Radicchio and Watercress Slaw, did not bring home the winning prize. However, the dish will be available on the restaurant's new menu.

The winners, Joe DeGuire and sous chef Garrett Pittler, of Lowes Vanderbilt Plaza Hotel in Nashville, will go on to participate in a national competition. DeGuire and Pittler served an Asian BBQ Glazed Pork Loin.

"(The competition) was exceptional this year," says Phyllis Ferguson of the Tennessee Pork Producers Association. "Especially in the visual presentations and the entrees."

The purpose of the event is to promote the sale of pork, an industry that has seen a decline in Tennessee.

5 Ways to Enjoy Murfreesboro

By JIM MYERS
Staff Writer
The Tennessean
December 3, 2004

Leaving Nashville to dine in the outlying areas always begs the question, ''Is it worth the drive?'' After a recent visit to B. McNeel's, just off the town square in Murfreesboro, I can answer that question with a ''yes,'' but read on because there's a larger qualifying question at hand.

After a stint at the Sunset Grill, and later at Pearl's Foggy Mountain Cafe in Sewanee, Tenn., chef Paul Ent finds himself settled in nicely at B. McNeel's, serving some of the finer dining the town has seen.

Ensconced in the city's historic center, the building's charm comes from exposed brick walls around a setting of quiet elegance. A casual dining room with a high ceiling and tall windows downstairs competes with the intimate energy of the upstairs space.

We opted to dine downstairs, which was empty, and asked to see both the upstairs and the casual downstairs menus. Our server happily obliged, letting us order from both.

When a room is that empty, I have concerns that the service will be uneven, or the kitchen will fire everything — appetizers, salads and entrees — out at once. Though the timing erred a bit more on the slow side (our meal lasted a good three hours), it turned out to be the only complaint of the evening. With each course, a platoon of servers left the kitchen to deliver plates at the peak of cooked perfection. The servers would then fade back and we were left with our main server, at the ready.

Our round of appetizers showed Ent's deft hand with oysters. Fried with a cornmeal crust and garnished with sweet, creamed corn and the tang of a red pepper coulis, the small golden bites ($7.95) made one pass. The oyster ''hot shot'' ($8.95), served broiled on the half shell with tequila lime butter, still was moist and tender, with a creamy depth. They were so good I pretended to need another bite to really understand the dish but decided not to pry one diner's skinny fingers off the last oyster.

Demonstrating an understanding of fresh presentations of Southern flavors, the Tennessee egg roll ($9.95) wraps up bits of country ham, smoky hickory chicken and mustard greens into a classic deep-fried roll. Hard to share since they fall apart when cut, the two egg rolls are best shared individually.

I chose the herb-encrusted rack of lamb ($22.95), ordered it rare and got exactly what I wanted. Rich brown on the outside and bright pink inside, eight small chops, grouped in twos, arrived neatly arranged on the plate. Garlic chives perfumed the mashed potatoes for more comfort on a blustery night.

Pan-seared scallops ($22.95), cooked to that delicate place between raw and rubber, were elevated to greatness by a sweet-tart chutney with enough spice to deliver a tantalizing bite of heat.

Also worth mentioning, especially in the trough of the fall-winter doldrums, is the gnocchi made with sweet potato ($16.95) and bathed in a Parmesan-cream sauce infused with sage. Adding some smoke and adding some sweetness to the rich sauce are bites of chicken sausage with apples.

Desserts cemented our relationships with our chairs as we sank back in full comfort. A simple vanilla crème brulee was as expected, and the Stonehenge-size portion of the chocolate cake, covered in thick peanut butter frosting, was a tasty pairing. Grabbing my attention, though, was a plate with three modest slices of simple pound cake, gently flavored with sweet potato and stuck into a mound of ice cream studded with chunks of nutty pralines. Drizzled on top and sealing the deal was a warm, rummy brown sugar sauce that carried the pralines farther still.

Yes, B. McNeel's is worth the drive. The larger question is, ''Is it worth the drive back?'' When your tired, sated belly just wants to be home, and 30 to 40 minutes of road stand between you and your bed, it better be good enough to bask in a tasty afterglow. To that I answer with a resounding ''yes,'' and an ''I'll be back'' to boot.

Plate is like a Canvas
To B. McNeel's new culinary artist

By Jennifer Cathey
Staff Writer
The Daily News Journal
November 14, 2004

Paul Andrew Ent, the new executive chef at Murfreesboro's B. McNeel's restaurant, sees his work as a chef in much the same light as an accomplished artist sees their masterpieces.

"To me, a plate is like a canvas," Ent said. "There are a lot of similarities between a chef and say, a painter."

Ent, who has been "painting" the plates at B. McNeel's for a little more than two months now, has revamped the restaurant's menu to include his trademark "contemporary Southern" dishes.

"I like to take things your grandmother liked to fix and put a twist on it," he said. "It's my heritage. It's what I grew up eating, was good, Southern food."

"(My trademark is) just taking Southern dishes and tweaking them to where you might not have. I like the element of surprise," he added.

The cuisine Ent creates takes old favorites and transforms them into new, exciting dishes. One of these dishes, Ent said, is an entree that includes ravioli filled with pulled pork and covered in barbecue sauce.

Ent also enjoys "tweaking" his deserts. One of his favorite techniques is adding chili peppers to rich, chocolate treats.

"The Mexicans have been doing it for years," he said. "To me, they're just a perfect blend. I mean, they go so well with one another."

Ent explains the flavors in the chili peppers and the chocolate counteract one another, making the normally hot chili peppers taste "almost like a fruit."

Ent believes another part of the job is putting as much flair, finesse and flavor as he can into the meals he creates.

“I think you come here for a memorable occasion, and that warrants me putting a whole lot in the dish to make it memorable,” he said.

Ever since he took the job at B. McNeel’s, Ent has been teaching the public about food by putting his unique spin on the restaurant’s ever-changing menu.

“It’s been like a 75/25 split,” Ent said. “We’ve kept about 25 percent of the dishes that were already on there.”

Ent has been working in the restaurant industry for 25 years, but he didn’t work all those years as a chef.

“I’ve been a chef for 12 or 14 years now,” he said.

While Ent never received formal training as a chef in the environment of a culinary school, he did receive years of real-life, practical training in the form of what he considers to be a variety of apprenticeships.

“I didn’t go to school, but I had the opportunity to work with a lot of great chefs out in D.C. and some here in Nashville,” he said. “I guess I’ve worked with a lot of great chefs.”

In order to become a certified chef without attending a culinary school, Ent had to pass an examination given by the American Culinary Federation.

“I’ve been interested in this job here for three years,” Ent said. “It’s just a thing with timing.”

Because Ent likes to work with fresh, seasonal ingredients and dishes, parts of the menu may change four times a year, he said.

“I usually start with my farmers market and see what the availability is,” Ent said. “Then, I talk to my purveyors.”

Squash, he explained, is a seasonal vegetable during the autumn, whereas it’s not widely available during the warmer months.
In order to keep all the customers happy, some entrees, like the popular lamb dish, are always on the menu.

“We have those who want to see the same menu,” he said. “The lamb has become a standard.”

No matter how tasty the food is, Ent believes the entire atmosphere at B. McNeel’s is what makes the dining experience enjoyable.

“If you come to a restaurant and you have a bad serving experience, it trickles down to where it might not make your food taste that good,” he said.

Ent believes that B. McNeel’s -- and what he considers to be its excellent serving staff -- help to create an all-around good experience.

“I think the serving staff we have here is just phenomenal,” he said.

New Chef & Courtyard Keeps B. McNeel's
One of the Best in the Boro

By Hollie Shulick
Rutherford A.M. Murfreesboro
September 29, 2004

When Paul Ent took over the reins as executive chef at B. McNeel's about a month ago, he feels the fit had as much to do with fate as anything else. "I had called myself the B. McNeel's stalker because I used to stand in the window and look at it, " Ent said. "And I thought ‘Wow.'"

After years of wishing and bad timing - Ent had left his last job, Pearl's Cafe in Sewanee - he called up B. McNeel's to see if they could use one of his sous chefs when he heard they were in the market for an executive chef. "This is destiny. I really believe that,” Ent said. “I don't think there is a place like this anywhere in Nashville." And someplace a step above is important for a man who takes such pride in his food. "I'm proud of my food," Ent said. "I believe dishes should be special. People pay a lot of money to go eat dinner, and I think it should be a special occasion."

Special occasion or not, B. McNeel's makes the decision easy by offering a few choices. Upstairs, diners get a fine experience with white linens and a special menu. Downstairs, diners get a more casual atmosphere and a choice between the fine menu and the casual menu, which is more modestly priced. "I always wanted to create two different worlds here," said Barbara Thomas, owner. "You can come dressed for a real fine dining experience upstairs or come in blue jeans and shorts, however you feel most comfortable, and come in for a beer and a burger."

Both menus offer the same quality of fresh ingredients and innovative Southern flair. The burger is certified Angus beef with smoked Gouda cheese, carmelized onions, Applewood smoked bacon and roasted red pepper aioli. If the occasion calls for a little more than that, try the crab encrusted sea bass, served with a creamy vegetable risotto, sauteed asparagus and scallion buerre blanc.

Aside from the reinvigorated kitchen, the back courtyard is helping business lunchers and evening diners get a little more fresh air. The courtyard, which doubles as Ent's herb garden, was completed at the beginning of the summer with hand-laid brick by Thomas and her husband. The marble tabletops and bar counter were hand-made by a local craftsman. "It's fantastic," Thomas said of her latest creation. "It's a really great New Orleans-type style back there and it's very pleasant. We have a little outside bar as well that all the happy hours love to come to and hang out outside."

One thing that hasn't changed is the Sunday brunch, served buffet-style,that includes made-to-order omelets, pancakes and eggs benedict. The never-ending glass of champagne for $2.95 is just an added bonus. As Thomas keeps improving and Ent keeps creating, B. McNeel's is just doing service to Murfreesboro's food lovers. "Even for people who don't intend for it to be a special dinner, I think that you can always make it a memorable occasion," Ent said.

5 Ways to Enjoy Murfreesboro

By VICKI STOUT
Williamson A.M.
December 5th, 2002

#4 Marina's and B. McNeel's

What's football without food? For hungry fans, we recommend two downtown eateries, Marina's on the Square and B. McNeel's Restaurant, which also is in historic downtown.

Marina's, located in an historic old building, is full of ambiance, a friendly wait staff and great pizza, calzones and casual Italian offerings. For dessert there's the signature tiramisu, spumoni and cannoli.

B. McNeel's, at 215 Church St., offers an upscale eclectic dinner menu with offerings such as crab and corn bisque, sea scallops, grouper, salmon, New York strip and roast pork tenderloin. For lunch there's everything from a burger to baked eggplant.

You'll Be Impressed by B. McNeel's

By THAYER WINE
Staff Writer
The Tennessean
February 15th, 2002

In the land of cafes and popular chain eateries, B. McNeel's stands out like a shining star.

White table cloths, classy décor with shiny wood, exposed brick and subtle blue-gray walls, and servers who know how to describe the upscale dishes give this Murfreesboro restaurant an aura all its own.

Barbara M. Thomas, a former caterer in the area, opened B. McNeel's off the square downtown just before Thanksgiving. Diners looking for a comfortable place to chat over a graciously served lunch or dinner will find this a good place to visit, if they don't mind some of the echoing sounds as they bounce off the hard brick and wood surfaces.

Some menu offerings, such as the house salad, marinated and grilled Portobello mushrooms and tenderloin, could have been ordinary, but they weren't. These dishes and others had familiar touches, but were put together in pretty displays with creative taste, color and texture combinations.

The tenderloin stood out be-cause the meat was so lean and tender and cooked exactly as we asked. It came with those tiny, whole fresh green beans, or haricots verts, and a light, not gooey version of scalloped potatoes.

The oven-roasted herb chicken, with similar accompaniments, also would make the person who doesn't care to be too adventurous happy. It was offered at lunch and dinner. We loved the medley of artichoke, tomatoes, olives and capers served with the potato-crusted snapper at dinner, too.

One of my favorite dishes was the pan-seared snapper with grilled sun-dried tomato polenta, green beans and roasted red pepper coulis served at lunch. This fish was fresh and its flavor paired well with the slightly crisped polenta. We also enjoyed the grilled salmon BLT served with addictive fresh sweet potato chips.

You can't beat the pretty salads. One salad served occasionally at dinner came with a small roasted squab and sautéed medallions of goat cheese on mesclun greens. It was a treat, as was the lovely house salad of mesclun greens with crumbled blue cheese, thinly sliced pears, caramelized walnuts and orange-honey mustard dressing. You wouldn't go wrong with the bright, fresh spinach salad topped with grilled onions, applewood smoked bacon, mushrooms and grape tomatoes either.

Don't pass up the gooey chocolate-hazelnut torte with cappuccino ice cream for dessert. When not overcooked, it is so good you won't be able to resist it.